San Gimignano
Step into San Gimignano and you step into medieval Italy.
The quaint Tuscan town, set 334 metres above sea level, against a background of deep green hills, is almost an anachronism in today’s slick world of fast cars and expeditions to outer space.
Known as 'San Gimignano delle belle Torri' or Beautiful Towers of San Gimignano, this spot, lying just 56 km south of Florence, for long held an important place in history. It was the site of an Etruscan village in the Hellenistic Period (300-200 BC). It’s strategic location on the border between Siena and Florence, in the Elsa valley, gave it prestige in the eyes of the Romans. A lot of wealth flowed into the town due to its position, first on Via Clodia and then on the Via Francigena, an important trading and pilgrim route.
It took its name from the Bishop of Modena, St. Gimignano, who, according to legend, saved the town from barbarians.
San Gimignano has seen some colorful history in its time. In 949, it was incorporated as a city, and 998 saw the construction of the first set of walls around the city. The walls offered rare protection, and attracted both the rich and the poor to set up their homes within its shelter.
Another very attractive feature was the slopes of the valley on which San Gimignano perched. On these slopes were grown the finest saffron in Italy, and merchants in search of export earnings flocked to the city.
San Gimignano became a free municipality in the early 12th century. The city grew and flourished. Merchants and the mendicant friars contributed generously to the art, architecture and amenities of the place. There were cobbled roads, public squares, fountains and churches. The convent of San Franscesco was completed in 1247. The city’s wealth and importance brought to it many works of art and on May 8th 1300, Dante Alighieri came to San Gimignano as the Ambassador of the Guelph League in Tuscany.
Internecine wars saw the town divided into two factions, one supporting the Ardinghelli family or the Guelphs, and the other, the Salvucchi family or the Ghibellines.
It was around this time that the towers which gave San Gimignano its distinction came to be built. The wealthy families that made the city their home began to vie with each other in building spectacular residences. Their flights of architectural fancy took the shape of towers, and a total of 72 such homes, thrusting up into the skyline, were built between the 11th and 13th centuries.
Today, only 14 of these once magnificent towers survive, but these give clear indication of the majesty that once clothed the city.
In the 13th century, San Gimignano had close to 7000 inhabitants. Then, in 1348, it fell prey to the devastating Black Death plague, and lost a great part of its population, which in turn led to its surrendering to the rule of Florence.
But San Gimignano bounced back, eventually. Its geographic and agricultural importance led to a revival of its might, and 14th century paintings of the Sienese School and examples of the work of the 15th century Florentine School add to the artistic importance of San Gimignano today.
Walls were built, torn down and rebuilt. They are, for the most part, still intact, along with the four gates -- S.Giovanni, S.Matteo, 'Delle Fonti', Quercecchio and S.Jacopo.
When all the world changed under the onslaught of economic and technological development, San Gimignano was left marooned on its verdant green hillside, its feudal atmosphere trapped within its walls.
But even this isolation was not for long. Because of San Gimignano’s artistic wealth, its success in preserving its ambience and also because of its picturesque surroundings, the city has found its way into the World Heritage list.
Today, San Gimignano is a highpoint on any tourist itinerary.
It is a mere hour’s drive from Florence or Siena, or a pleasant two-hour bus ride away. Its beauties can be taken in in just one day.
Visitors are not allowed to drive through San Gimignano’s narrow alleys, so, if you’ve come by car, leave it outside the walls, and take a walk through ancient Italy.
Start at the Piazzale dei Martiri di Monte Maggio and imagine you’re being put through your paces by Niccoló Macchiavelli who once drilled the town militia here. Go on through Via San Giovanni and be knocked breathless by the dramatic view of the countryside from the San Francesco monastery which is now a wine cellar. When you’ve recovered your breath, go on to the Piazza della Cisterna, the core of San Gimignano, once the venue of many a bustling weekly market, as well as tourneys and plays.
At the Duomo or Collegiate Church, consecrated in 1148, be wowed by the splendid fresco paintings from the Old and New Testaments and the “Last Judgment” by Taddeo di Bartolo. St. Fina's Chapel is a must see, and the Museo d’Arte Sacra, in the cloister of the church, has many religious and archaeological treasures.
Another art museum at the Palazzo del Popolo or the People’s Palace, has two 12th century crucifixes, Gothic altarpieces, and some great frescos. Don’t miss Dante’s Hall with "The Maestà" by Lippo Memmi. At the Picture Gallery, soak in the beauty of the works by Filippino Lippi, Pinturicchio, Benozzo Gozzoli, Domenico di Michelino, Pier Francesco Fiorentino, Sebastiano Mainardi, Lorenzo di Niccolò di Martino and Coppo di Marcovaldo.
For those who have the energy, a climb up the 54-metre high "Great Tower" or Podesta’s Tower, built in 1311, will prove a very rewarding experience. The view from the top is unforgettable.
The Kriminal Museum, or the Museum of Torture, which houses a gory collection of medieval torture instruments, and the Museum of the History of Handicrafts, which displays a good collection of tools and implements, are both worth a visit. At the Spezieria dello Spedale di Santa Fina take a look at the techniques of antique pharmacy, including ceramic and glass containers and medications. The Raffaele De Grada or Gallery of Modern & Contemporary Art is another important exhibition space.
The church of Sant’Agostino is a fine example of Renaissance architecture. It is home to the bones of St.Bartolo, and has some fine 15th century paintings of Saint Augustine by Benozzo Gozzoli.
Behind the cathedral lies the fortress of Montestaffoli where you can have a picnic lunch. If you’re lucky, you may pick up some Etruscan shards as you walk up to it. After enjoying the panoramic views of the countryside, walk down to the wool-washer’s fountain, which is a series of tubs under Romanesque and Gothic vaults.
Spend the rest of the day exploring the brick alleys of San Gimignano, or drive up to the pretty Romanesque church of Cellole, just about two miles away, and take in an unusual view of the town.
San Gimignano is not just about art and architecture, however. It has a good dollop of commerce too. Apart from the cultivation of the much-sought-after saffron, an ancient horticultural business which is now being revived, San Gimignano also draws financial sustenance from the Vernaccia, a prized white wine.
It has been contended that the grapes used to make Vernaccia were first brought to the region by the Etruscans. Be that as it may, the grape yields a drink that has inspired poets and Popes. In fact, Pope Martin IV’s gluttony, as portrayed by Dante Alighieri in Purgatorio XXIV, takes the form of eating Bolsena eels pickled in Vernaccia.
Official documents dating as far back as 1276 mention the wine, and efforts were made by the San Gimignano administration to control the trade in Vernanccia, indications that its fame had spread through Tuscany and the rest of Italy.
After the Renaissance, the region’s enological tradition got eroded, and the twentieth century white wines of San Gimignano came to bear little resemblence to the drink that Dante enjoyed. They acquired a light and spritzy character. But the region’s vintners are working hard to restore the wine to its former glory, and they’ve achieved a great measure of success.
The Vernaccia grape requires careful handling and superb techniques to yield good results, but the vintners find the effort well worth it, because the best is rated as “excellent”.
It was the first Italian wine to be awarded the prestigious DOC or Denominasione di Origine Controllata status, acquiring it in 1966. In 1993, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano got the higher DOCG or Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita ranking.
The powerful and full-bodied, golden wine has a heady boquet, a crisp, clean taste and a slightly bitter after-taste. It makes an excellent aperitif and goes well with all fish dishes, besides being a suitable accompaniment for white meat.
Montenidoli, Casale Falchini, Ponte a Rondolino and Fattoria di Cusona are among the best producers.