Francigena Way
History
This 2000 year old road was once a strategic trade route connecting major cities of Europe. Julius Caesar set up the series of roads in 58 B.C and since then it has served as a purposeful path for kings, traders and armies alike. People largely used it to visit the various Holy sites of Christianity in Europe. In those times, the three such famous places were the site of Martyrdom of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, in Rome, the place where Apostle Saint James chose to rest in peace-Santiago de Compostella, and the holy land of Jerusalem. Many historic events like the long hike to Rome which the 10-th century archbishop of Canterbury, Sigeric undertook to receive his pallium from Pope John XV, have made this route one of the most talked about in the world. It is also said that it was Sigeric who first documented the route while returning home after acquiring the pallium. The dangers that pilgrims face along the way are numerous and so a ritual was observed when they started their journey. Pilgrims, usually men, are made to pay off their debts, obtain a pilgrim dress from a local clergy and also ask forgiveness of any person that he might have offended, before leaving.
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The revival
It is indeed a sad fact that till recently this way did not receive the attention that it was due. As acts of penance-for which the route was mostly used-became less popular during the mid-17th century and boundaries of the various countries shifted with constant ripples in global politics, the road soon became obsolete. By the time dusk fell on the 18th century, only Napoleon’s troops were footslogging its numerous byways. Today, thanks largely to the Italy based organization Via Francigena and the European Council which recently hailed the route as a “Cultural Itinerary” the historic path is seeing a magnificent revival. Signboards giving directions are becoming a regular feature in many places along the way making way for user friendly travel. Guide books for the contemporary “pellegrino” or pilgrim are doing brisk business. The route, in some places is being shifted from the crowded two-laned roads to more peaceful farmlands. The earlier perils of bandits, wild animals and hostile river crossings are no longer existent and though this snuffs out the adventure part of the trip, more people are willing to undertake the journey than ever before.
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The Journey
A fairly good physical condition is a must for undertaking this arduous journey. Walking at a comfortable pace the trip would take anywhere between 70 and 80 days. And one should also make sure that time is not a constraint as the itinerary overshoots its mark more often than not. A speed of about 12 to 20 miles a day, depending on the stamina of the person, and of course the weather conditions, can be expected. It is also important to consider beforehand details of accommodation for all the villages and places that one might stay in along the way. Some do not have accommodation and so do not be surprised if you are refused accommodation by some suspicious innkeeper and are forced to take a trek in complete darkness till you reach the next village. But largely there are quite a bit of youth hostels, monasteries, campsites etc where one can stay for the nights. Most of the villagers are friendly and helpful and knowing that you are a pilgrim, many do not accept money for their hospitality. The pilgrims along the way are mostly friendly and though the odd person might snort at you, it is not difficult to open conversation and make chums soon. It is quite a treat conversing with people of various nationalities for long stretches on the road.
The odd local police force might ask you for identity documents. Usually Pellegrino credentials are more than enough to sail you through these human check posts. This document, resembling a passport, can be obtained at the Association Via Francigena in Rome and identifies one as a legitimate pilgrim and not one who is just out to take advantage of the various benefits of having the identity card like the impressive hospitality that one gets along the way. After arriving at any village, you are expected to get the ID stamped by the local priest.
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Things to consider
Apart from the obvious distance factor and accommodation you have to consider quite a few things before and while making this epoch journey. The Italian coast can get very busy during August and so time your journey accordingly. The terrain is usually good enough to walk. Most of the initial portions of the journey would be through France where the roads are level and the walking is easier. The Great Saint Bernard Pass is the highest point on the route at a height of 2469 meters.
Take only things that are of utmost importance as extra weight is a burden you cannot afford especially while walking such a long distance. Sore shoulders and blisters on feet are a common phenomenon; so be prepared for such eventualities. Also be equipped with a guide book so that you do not miss anything along the way.
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Francigena Way in Tuscany
The Francigena Way enters Tuscany at the Cisa Pass in the area known as Lunigiana and goes southwards toward Acquapendente passing through Lucca and Siena. Even now it is possible to fairly find out and visit the villages that were originally charted by Sigeric. Along this route lie four geographical areas where the influence of medieval tradition could be found on and off.
First among these begins at the Cisa Pass in the Appennine Mountains and goes down the valley of the Magra River into Aulla and Sarzana. This place is named Lunigiana after the Roman port city of Luni. This city is now an archaeological site and from this place marble was sent to the entire world. Many of the places-castled villages, monasteries etc.-are small and are built on steep mountain slopes. The numerous tributaries and natural caves surrounding the place are really a wondrous sight.
The next area originates at the Sarzana and goes into Altopascio past Lucca. Sarzana is an important junction where the Francigena and the Roman road, Aurelia meet. The roads stay close to the foot of the Apuane Mountains and remain inland. A famous abbey, the Abbey of Camaiore as well as many castles and medieval villages are present along the way.
The third area is the longest in the Francigena Way and starts from Altopascio, runs into Fucecchio, and ends in Siena. The land that one crosses through is more likely than not to have been huge tracts of swamps in the olden days. The cities here are all walled and the narrow streets and gates are ample proof of medieval times.
The fourth and final area begins at Siena and proceeds south to Abbadia San Salvatore. The golden wheat crop in the open land spaces are a treat to watch and some very famous monasteries and Abbeys are located here.
A wonderful alternative to the high speed highways and also a remarkable way to see Tuscany, this stretch of the Francigena is a must walk.
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Final Word
Overall this road is a must not only for you pilgrims out there but also for all adventure lovers with a passable stamina. With people from different parts of Europe and also from other continents giving you company, these three months will be the most unforgettable ones in your life. But don’t you forget to apply for that long leave beforehand lest you want to be out of your job.
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Back to Home / Tourism in Tuscany / Culture & Antropology
One of the more popular pilgrimage routes in the world is the “Via Francigena”(V.F) or the “Francigena Way” running from Canterbury, England to Rome, Italy - a distance of 1900 kilometers. The route, way back in the 11th century, was used for sacred pilgrimages by thousands of people. People would travel across Europe and would do it mostly on foot as only this would do for a trip made in remorse for the misdeeds that they might have committed. In the midst of the high speed travel that the Europeans so love, this route comes as a boon for those would like to take it easy and meander at their own pace across meadows and hills and past archaeological wonders. The route is largely unaffected by heavy traffic and one would find only walkers and the stray motorized cycles chugging past. 