Siena
Look up Italy on a world map. You will see a dot marked with the word ‘Siena’. Your eyes might wander off to other more popular tourist destinations like Florence. You might even forget the name in a few minutes. Do so at your peril, for Siena is among the most visited tourist spots in Italy. This innocuous little town, combining the ancient with the modern, represents the true face of Italy forming a seamless mixture of old world charm and modern grandeur. A beautiful landscape dotted with innumerable cathedrals, hosting grand festivals, home to great Italian artists and their work, Siena rivals the renowned Florence in cultural greatness and artistic heritage.
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Location
Tuscany, renowned all over the world for its artistic and cultural heritage, is located in central Italy. Among its many provinces is the Siena province. Siena city is the most prominent city in this province; there are many more principal towns being San Gimignano and Montepulciano.
Siena city, which forms the capital of the Siena province, is among the most important of Tuscan towns. Among very few cities in the world are enveloped on all sides by such geographical beauty as Siena. Surrounded by the Chianti vineyards and olive trees on the north, the Arbia valley on the South and the enchanting coastline towards the west, Siena boasts rich natural beauty.
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Origins
The origins of Siena are still shrouded with mystery and there is debate regarding who the early settlers were. It is generally agreed though that a tribe of Etruscans called Saina settled there around 12th century BC. The Etruscans were civilized and evolved, a fact that is evident from the way they had irrigation and agriculture as their primary vocation. They resided mostly in hill-forts, each equipped with its own farmhouse, a feature that is visible even now in the Siena countryside. Experts hypothesize that the Etruscans could have given more importance to their goddesses and that’s why with the advent of Christianity later, the Virgin Mary came to have great importance in the entire region. The Etruscans believed in life after death and is like another one of those tribes that bury the dead with everything they might need for the after-life.
Another legend suggests that Siena was founded by the Senio-Ascanio brothers, sons of Remus, one of the founders of Rome. History is pretty certain on the fact that Romans indeed did settle in the area calling it Saenna Julia. Sculptures and statues of the she-wolf suckling Remus and Romulus is ubiquitous in Siena lending credence to this legend.
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History & Development
For a long while, under the Roman rule, Siena didn’t prosper. For all their greatness in finance and trade, the Romans didn’t think much of converting Siena into a prosperous, profitable city. It was with the invasion of Siena by the Lombards in 6th century AD that proved to be better for the city in terms of prosperity. Siena soon became a busy trade center and the point place for pilgrims going to and from Rome.
In 774, the Lombards surrendered to Charlemagne and the Franks penetrated the region. They married into Sienese nobility. This explains the proliferation of abbeys all over the city which still dot the territory.
The decades that followed saw Siena prosper as a regional heavyweight in finance and trade. The church started dominating during the 900s and for 200 years the Bishop governed Siena directly until the 1100s. The commune of Siena declared freedom from the church in 1167. This was among the golden cultural periods of Siena. It was during this time that the Duomo and the Torre del Mangia were constructed and the Piazza del Campo gained prominence. These reforms were majorly due to the efforts of the Sienese governing body called The Council of Nine.
As Siena grew economically, Florence became its natural rival. Siena and Florence were locked in a bitter stuggle for domination for about 400 years. In 1260, Siena defeated Florence in the Battle of Montaperti. In 1555 though, a much strengthened Florence abetted by the Spanish, vanquished Siena and the Siena province was inducted into the Florentine Duchy. They waged many a war between the 13th and 15th centuries with Florence finally emerging superior. The Black Plague of 1348 that killed millions in Europe wiped out about three-fifths of the Siena population from which Siena never fully recovered.
Siena continued to grow economically, albeit slowly, between the 14th and 19th centuries. It was during the 14th century that Siena was divided into 17 contrades for better governance; a system that remains alive till date. Siena became a part of Tuscany when Italy became a republic and continues to preserve its rich cultural and artistic heritage.
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Siena’s Terzi
Siena originally had three districts or ‘Terzi’ which literally means ‘Thirds’. The Terzi were the Terzo di Citta, Terzo di Camollia and the Terzo di San Martino. The Duomo, the Santa Maria della Scala museum and the Sienese Center for Contemporary Arts called the Palazzo delle Papesse are all in the Terzo di Citta. The Terzo di Camollia, facing Florence, used to be heavily guarded but now forms an important civic center hosting shopping spaces and financial institutions. The Piazzo del Campo which is in the center of the city forms part of the third Terzi, the Terzo di San Martino.
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Architecture
There are a number of museums in Siena which hold marvelous examples of Etruscan art. A number of Etruscan sites can be found in Chianti and Volterra. The local archeological finds of ancient Etruscan artifacts are displayed at the Museo Etrusco Guarnacci.
The Renaissance movement in Europe affected art, architecture and the very culture of Siena. The movement not only gave birth to a number of illustrious artists, designers and sculptors but also changed the way disciplines like art and architecture were viewed. There appeared more innovative styles, better ideas and newer ways of perceiving the world through the artists’ eyes. Italy was quick to incorporate these developments in its own architecture, a fact that is evident in the varying architectural styles all over the country.
Siena was no exception. Being part of Florence at the Renaissance period, Siena witnessed the emergence of a gothic style of architecture. Famous artists at that time include Duccio, Simone Martini and the Lorenzetti brothers whose works are still preserved and can be seen all over the city.
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The Duomo
Siena’s Roman past is evident in many of the monuments in the city; the most prominent among them being the Duomo. The Duomo, Siena’s black and white marbled cathedral, is a fine example of Roman architecture and plays host to an invaluable collection of Tuscan art.
Work began at the Duomo in the 12th century and was completed around 1380. It took over 200 years to complete and was worked on by some of Italy’s greatest designers and sculptors including Donatello, Duccio, the father son duo of Giovanni and Nicola Pisano, Bernini and Florence’s own great sculptor Michelangelo.
The baptistery, the part of the church used for baptisms, and the Campanile, the bell tower, are most exquisitely modeled. Inside the Duomo is the famous octagonal pulpit supported by lions designed by Pisano. The baptistery is adorned with bas reliefs of famous 15th century Italian sculptors like Donatello, Jacopo della Quercia and Ghiberti. The Opera del Duomo Museum is home to the illustrious Duccio’s Madonna.
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Piazza del Campo
The Piazzo del Campo is a shell-shaped open space in the heart of the city which hosts the famous horserace Il Palio. The Piazzo is surrounded on all sides by beautiful monuments dating back to the 14th century. The city hall Palazzo Pubblico, the famous fountain Fonte Gaia and the Torre del Mangia form the Piazzo’s circumference. This Piazzo forms a focal point of the entire city.
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Museo Civico
The Museo Civico located in the Piazza del Campo is the place to go to, to view the art masterpieces. The museum hosts paintings by numerous famous artists including Simone Martini and Ambrogio Lorenzetti. Lorenzetti designed the stained-glass window depicting St. Michael in 1330. Original panels from the Gaia fountain designed by Jacopo della Quercia can also be found here along with Bartolo’s fresco Capella.
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Events in Siena
Il Palio or Palio di Siena, the racing silk of Siena, is a unique horseracing event that takes place in the grounds of the Piazza del Campo twice every summer. The first race is held honoring the Madonna of Provenano and the second is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The race itself lasts only two minutes in which 10 participants from different contrades race around the Piazzo trying to win the race both by racing and by heckling the other riders. Festivities leading to the race begin weeks earlier and visitors to the city participate in all activities along with the locals with great gusto.
A magnificent parade is held just before the race which is a grand display of the cultural heritage and attributes of each contrade. The parade consists of a flag-bearer on horseback for each contrade followed by trumpeters and drummers dressed in medieval costumes. The winner of the race is gifted with the Palio, a banner of decorated silk. Tickets to the race are sold out months before the actual event.
The Palio event is among the most significant events in all Italy. The pomp, splendor and grandeur on display at the event and the unrestrained emotions that can be witnessed here are evident to the fact that the people still hold their festivals and particularly the Palio very close to their hearts.
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Other Events
There are a number of other events in Siena which serve not only to preserve the cultural history of the area but also keep the people from the drudgery of their daily lives.
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Music
Music has always had a major influence on the cultural life of Siena. Even today many concerts and operas are being organized throughout the year. The Siena Jazz Association hosts the popular summer Jazz open-air concert in the months of July and August. Another organization that plays a major role in this sphere is the Accademia Musicale Chigiana. Located in the Via di Citta, this association manages several classical operas and concerts. Concerts are also held at the San Galgano Abbey.
Theater and Drama
The parks in Siena become the highlight of the city during August when a number of films are shown there. There are a large number of theater and drama groups that offer outdoor theater performances. These topics and stories for these shows varies from Sienese history to the current hot political issue. The Fortezza Medeci hosts the ‘Cinemain Fortezza’ in June and July which offers an outdoor movie experience to the visitors.
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The Nature Train
People visit Siena for a number of reasons. But the main reason is to soak up the countryside splendor. Picturesquely located, Siena offers a veritable feast in terms of natural beauty to the tired urban eyes. The Treno Natura was introduced just for people who like to mingle with Nature. The Treno Natura or the Nature Train is a slow train trip throughout the Sienese countryside through the Val d'Arbia, Val d'Orcia and La Crete. Passing slowly through the winding paths of Siena, witness the people as they go about their daily lives, the grand richness of the abounding forest areas and experience the tranquil setting of this beautiful city.
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The modern day Siena
Siena has evolved and changed along with the times, but not so much as to lose its identity. Usually ancient cities become anachronisms unable to catch up with technology or become totally modern devoid of any traces of cultural heritage. But, Siena presents a marvelous contrast. The present co-exists comfortably with the past here.
The city is very accessible with the nearest airport in Pisa and trains from Pisa and Florence. Visitors to the city would love to know that no traffic is allowed within the city. The football club AC Siena is a popular fixture here. Among Italy’s most famous university is the Siena University founded in 1203.
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Conclusion
The first thing that visitors to Siena notice is that the people here are warm and full of joie de vivre. They also preserve their rich artistic past and celebrate festivals with much fervor and passion. Tourists can participate in all festivals here and are made to feel like one in the family. Siena, with its long, winding lanes, gothic architecture, instances of artistic magnificence at every turn of the street, warm people, grand festivals and glorious abbeys offers much to behold and reminisce. In today’s ever-changing fashions and short-lived memories Siena presents a solid experience to the tourist; an experience to be remembered, cherished and recounted to others for a long, long time to come.
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