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Lucca

The town of Lucca, Italy is an offbeat holiday spot that is growing in popularity with tourists every year, for an assured, relaxed and soothing stay! A small compact refreshing town that, has flat land all around unlike places where trudging slopes saps one’s energy, is completely snuggled in by walls that date back to the 16th century, prides in beautiful ancient churches and monuments, bazaars and has a people who are hospitable yet respectful of the privacy of its guests. The verdant hills that dot the town all round, produce the world’s finest wines and olive oil giving a welcome boost to the local economy. If one wishes to relax at a beach or even unwind at discotheque for a change, it’s only a short hop away!

An inexpensive and enjoyable way of going around Lucca is by bicycle – a sure way of pedaling away and burning off all those extra calories piled up by the delicious Tuscan food one has indulged in. There are many small shops that offer bicycles on hire to tourists. Or if one prefers to casually stroll around, that is possible too without getting hot, sticky or out of breath since the weather is nice and pleasant, especially in winter. For those health freaks who enjoy a morning constitutional at a brisk pace, the ramparts are an ideal place. The surrounding area around the walls was developed into a park in the 19th century. Napoleon’s widow Marie Lewis, planted plane trees along the raised walls and buttresses, for which the grateful citizens of Lucca honored her with a statue in Piazza Napoleone! The ramparts can be now used as a shaded track for walking or even cycling, much to the delight of visitors who go there. To complete the entire circuit of the path on the walls, while taking in a breathtaking view of the city as a bonus, logs in a distance of about 4 kilometers,! The green and salubrious surroundings only add to the pleasure of this delightful experience.

Lucca, Italy stands close to the Serchio River on a plateau of rich fertile soil, just 19 meters above sea level. The nearest airport to the town at Pisa, is within a comfortable distance of 30 kilometers and the other neighboring tourist town of Florence is a mere 85 kilometers away. The town of Lucca is so strategically situated from the beginning that it had great importance in Roman times, when it took pride as the seat of power as well.

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 The Ramparts  
The main feature that makes Lucca stand apart among the other tourist spots of Italy is the ancient fortification of the town by walls that are well preserved even today. The Romans take credit for this unique construction. Initially the walls had four gates that allowed entry into the town. Later in the 12th and 13th centuries more walls were included and two more gates added. The 16th century saw the completion of this extension work - what one sees today, of the walls with bastions. Each gate was given a name.

Porta San Pietro distinguishes itself with an image of St Peter on its central arch.
Porta Santa Maria has a marble structure depicting Mary with the infant Jesus.
Porta San Donato has decorations with marble and is made of brick
Napoleon’s sister, Elisa Biocchi, built Porta Elisa. She was gifted the town of Lucca in 1805 by her brother and she ruled there for some time. The last two gates are of later vintage, added on for the convenience of the residents –Porta Sant’Anna and Porta San Jacopa

The affluence of Lucca in the 12th and 13th centuries, brought about by silk production and trade, is still borne out in the extravagantly built palazzas, towers and churches of that era, that stand in their splendor even to this day.

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 Piazza San Martino  

This famous square is distinguished by the splendid Cathedral, a beautiful fountain created by Lorenzo Nottalino in 1832 and the Cathedral Museum.

The Romanesque Duomo di San Martino (the Cathedral) is revered specially for the Volto Santo, meaning Holy Face, believed to be that of Christ, carved in wood by Nicodemus who was a witness at the crucifixion.

The church was built in 1060 and dedicated to Saint Martin.

The square that take its name from this church also takes pride in the Museo Dell Opera del Duomo that houses the valuable treasures of the Cathedral, in addition to some rare works of art.

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 Piazza San Michele  

This square in the center of the town is well known for the Church of San Michele, Palazzo Pretoria, Palazzo del Decanto. The façade of San Michele in Foro is claimed to be the most photographed for its breathtaking beauty! The carving is unbelievably thin and very delicately balanced, culminating in a huge statue of Saint Michael conquering the dragon. Its beauty is supposed to be more appreciated if one visits the monument at different times of the day, as the light changes. An exquisite Madonna with the Child, by Matteo Civitali and statues of well known persons of that era, like Garibaldi, Cavour and others also draw the attention of visitors.

Giacomo Puccini, Italy’s best-known composer of operas, a son of Lucca, used to participate in the choir of this magnificent church.

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 Piazza Napoleone  

Napoleon’s sister ruled Lucca after she received the town as gift from her emperor brother. In 1806, she dedicated a piazza in his name, razing to the ground many buildings that stood there. An interesting highlight of this square is the Palazza Ducale, which survived the demolition drive and was later made the political and administrative center of the town. There are some lovely courtyards, an exquisite staircase, a Statue Gallery and loggias (open sided galleries) worth seeing here.

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 Piazza del Mercato  

This is the site of the ancient Roman Amphiteatre that was constructed in the 1st and 2nd centuries and later destroyed by barbarians who invaded the region. The extravagant theatre that could hold some 10,000 spectators was built with marble and elaborate supporting columns. A single arch survives from the past today, though much has been reconstructed on this square during the 19th century by master architect, Lorenzo Nottolini who was successful to a large extent to renovate the site.

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 Casa Guinigi and the Guinigi Tower  

The affluent in Lucca’s past, loved to flaunt their riches. One such family of the 15th century built the Casa Guinigi, a collection of mansions where the rich and powerful family of the Guinigis lived – they ruled Lucca for a part of the 15th century. What made this residence stand out from the rest, were the oak trees that grew from the top of the towers! Originally four towers were built, though only one survives the ravages of time today. A climb up the tower, affords an impressive bird’s eye view of the town and countryside. The place is a must for every tourist!

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 National Museum of Villa Guinigi  

Situated in the former residence of Paolo Guinigi, the museum has exhibits of rare sculptures, ceramics and items in gold made in the Middle Ages. Much of the collection pertains to finds around Lucca and the nearby regions

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 Giacoma Puccini  

One of Italy’s very famous composers, Giacoma Puccini was born in Lucca, on December 22, 1858.The house where he was born is today converted into a museum in Piazza della Cittadella, where a bronze statue of the Lucca’s famous son stands in the center. Every year between the months of May- August, music lovers revel in the Puccini Festival that is held in an open-air theatre at Torre del Lago, nearby.

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 Via Fillungo  

Via Fillungo is the most popular shopping street of the town that is found in the heart of the Lucca, Italy. Places of tourist interest at this lively place are traditional shops, noblemen’s palaces and the Tower of Hours, that is one of the medieval and oldest towers to be seen here.

For most shops in Lucca shutters are down between lunch and 4 o’ clock in the evening. The weekly holiday for these establishments is normally, Wednesday though some shops observe Monday morning in addition, as their time off!

The 3rd weekend of the month is usually reserved for a large antique market at Piazza Antelmillelli and Piazza San Guisto and the last weekend for an arts and crafts sale at the same place. The market for local products, hums to life on Wednesdays and Saturday mornings at Via dei Bacchettoni.

Lucca’s train station is just two blocks away from the ramparts if entered from gate Porta San Pietro. Frequent trains take a person to Florence in just 70-90 minutes time.

There is a bus service too, that plies everyday to Florence and Pisa and back, from Piazza Verdi. Air connections can be made from Pisa, Florence, Milan or Rome

Lucca has definitely been one of the lesser-known towns of Tuscany in the last few years but all that is changing now and fast. Chattering tourists clutching bulging shopping bags are seen everywhere. Enterprising residents are converting an increasing number of rooms into affordable apartments for rent. Yet this diminutive town has managed to deal with this change without losing its old fashioned charm!

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