TALES OF ANOTHER WORLD
Join the parade of the Lady of the Snows and discover the history of the Cacciaconti Castle. Find the medieval hamlet of Trequanda as it evolves from the eastern border of the Senesi territory. You can reach Sinalunga that is at the exit of Val di Chiana/Betolle at A1. Follow the SS 38 that leads to S. Giovanni d'Asso/Torrenieri. Or just drive through the beautiful scenic route SS 438 which starts from Siena and passes through Asciano and S. Giovanni d'Asso. Stand in the center of the commune of the three villages of Trequanda, Petroio and Castelmuzio and you will see that the huge medieval castle of Cacciaconti occupies a third of the village of Trequanda.
Traverse the passage of time, back into the Dark Ages when the Etruscans settled on the banks of Tyrrhenian Sea, the Arno Valley and the around the Tiber in the 8th century B.C. When the Romans came and settled later around the hills called Monti of Trequanda, the name was derived from Montisi given by the Etruscans who worshipped the goddess Isis. The ancient castle of Montisi was built by the Counts of Scalienga who came originally from Asciano. It was from this family that the Cacciaconti stemmed and they claimed the commune of Siena in 1175. Can you hear a hundred voices swearing allegiance to the Cacciaconti family? The ruling family took control and played an important part in the developing trade. They leased out their lands to cultivators which led to the forming of the free commune of Montisi or Monte Isi. In the year 1283, the commune was protected by 'massari' or bailiffs. Then in 1291, the three Cacciaconti brothers, Simone, Fazio and Cacciaconte decided to get into a contract and formulated a deed which would get profits from the revenues of the produce from the cultivators. But the inhabitants of Monte Isi did not agree and were up in arms against the Cacciaconti family. Though the villagers were wounded and some of them even died, they went on with the terrible battle. Then Simone Cacciaconti withdrew from the battle and instead laid a trail of waste in his path by burning the village and pillaging property, lands and cattle. But he was soon overthrown and banished with all his property taken by force from him.
This terrible incident left such a deep imprint of trauma in the minds of people so much so that the 'Giostra di Simone' is enacted every year. From the four quarters or 'Contrade' of Castello, Torre, Piazza and San Martino, the feast day of 'Our Lady of Snows' is represented by knights jousting in a tourney with a wooden effigy of Simone Cacciaconti. The effigy has a target in its left hand and a ring called a 'campanella' over its left shoulder while the right hand of the effigy holds the 'flagello' or a whip with balls attached to the end of the cord which hits out at the knight if he is too slow. Each knight is allowed four charges at the effigy where he is allowed to strike the target or impale it or carry off the campanella with his lance. The Contrada which gets the most number of points is rewarded with a painted banner called 'Il Panno' in Montisi. Heralded by trumpets, drummers, four Contrade, the 'massari' of the Commune and players, the parade brings alive the dreadful day of pillaging. The destiny of Montisi drew it closer to Siena and the war between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines. Then as the 13th century drew to an end, the influential and powerful Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala was given the castle with its surrounding estates. At the end of the 14th century, they built the Grancia or the Grange with a huge fortified farm which had like that of a castle, moats, drawbridge, cloisters, cellars, olive presses and water cisterns with a tall slim tower like that of the Town Hall of Siena.
DEFYING NATURAL LAWS
But as the centuries rolled past, six centuries later, the tower was destroyed by the German troops as they were attacked by the Allied Forces. The Castle of Montisi came under the authority of the Vicar of the Commune of Siena. The castle of Montisi took up most of the hill and overlooked the village. The village had a square tower that was destroyed by the 14th century. The wall surrounding the castle with an elliptical road is called today as the Via del Castello. Though the new statute of the Commune of Montisi was approved, the decline of Siena had begun and culminated in the 16th century with the Medicis taking over. The Medicean rulers employed huge armies of French and Spaniards to plunder the land. The Sienese Republic fell and all its lands including that of Montisi were taken under the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Montisi was allowed free elections for the Prioral Council and the Camerlengo. But the entire town was placed under the authority of the Podesta of Trequanda while justice was left to the Magistrate of Pienza. Siena saw terrible times, though Montisi was slightly better off with the cultivation of saffron.
The 17th century brought in a working period wherein most of the population worked for their income as carpenters, blacksmiths, an armorer, cobblers and some artisans. The Hospital of Santa Maria della Scala was overwhelmed with debts and sold the Grange of Montisi to the Mannucci-Benincasa family whose family still live there till today. In 1777, the Grand Duke Leopoldo of Tuscany formed the Commune of Trequanda with Montisi, Petroio and Castelmuzio. But this fell out in the middle of the 19th century and Montisi became part of the Commune of San Giovanni d'Asso. This was brought about because one Signor Croci of San Giovanni d'Asso promised to fulfill the water requirements of Montisi so that Montisi would be transferred to his commune. The King of Italy, Victor Emmanuel II signed this accordance on January 1, 1878. Trequanda was given importance as its location was the controlling point on transport routes that linked Chiusi and Siena via Asciano.
Come and see the Cacciaconti Castle as it stands at the top of the hill surrounded by its buildings and an ornamental garden. Experience its pleasant climate with its laid back attitude. Enjoy its agritourism destination with its famous olive oil, wine, cheese, salami, chianina beef and honey. Walk into the 13th century church of S. Pietro and S. Andrea which has a fresco by Sodoma and a triptych by Giovanni di Paolo with Madonna and Child. Absorb the lovely ambience of these beautiful churches with its artistic Romanesque-gothic architecture with its façade embellished with white and ochre colored stones which give the impression of a chess board. Petroio is popular for its terracotta and pottery. Visit the medieval hamlet of Trequanda and look at the old Cacciaconti Castle as it stands at an altitude of 462 meters above sea level. Its origins misted over by the dews of time attribute its name to the mythological Etruscan hero, 'Tarkon' or 'Tarconte'. There is no documentation of this as even that is also clouded over by the passage of time and it is said that fire had consumed the archives. But people have speculated that the castle was taken over by the counts of Cacciaconti della Berardenga of the noble Frank lineage some time in the first half of the 12th century.
THE STEPS OF TIME
Massive, mysterious and mesmerizing, the village is surrounded by crenallated irregular shaped walls with five towers and a gate. This is joined to the main round tower of the Cacciaconti Castle. Little remains of the walls except on the north east side whilst its gates have disappeared into the calamities of time. The trapezoidal shaped castle was damaged during the course of the Second World War and the huge round tower was re-constructed. Some of its circuit walls with vestiges of the second tower remain. The castle complex houses a bank. The walls of the old village have only remnants of its outer walls and two of its three entrance portals. Built against a wonderful backdrop of lush green woods with the natural environment of rows of vineyards, olive groves and cereal crops, the Cacciaconti Castle had numerous buildings with a lovely garden.
The devastation by Simone Cacciaconti is marked with black cypress trees. Sit at the piazza that is softly kissed by the gentle breezes and look at the Town Hall and its artistic churches. Walk down its steep and narrow roads and alley ways from the hill. As you descend you will find to your delight, old covered passages, beautiful votive ceramics, family coat of arms and lovely benches in travertine and tufo. Wild and scenic, the communal area covers 64 square kilometers with dark green mysterious oak woods and a vast range of Mediterranean herbs. The road that links the village is of particular interest as it offers a panorama of beauty. The border castle of the Cacciaconti family with its strong and strategic position drew together a curious fusion of the old and new. As an interesting fact, the Christmas pastry called the panforte was found among the parchment papers from the castle of Montisi which belonged to the Cacciaconti family. Also of notable interest is the fact that the inhabitants and the servants of the monastery of Montecellesi had to give the nuns bread with pepper and honey as a form of tax.
Trequanda invites you to bring your picnic hampers and sit around its scenic pastures. You won't need a newspaper to while away your time for the wind carries innumerable tales to fill you for life. Come and take in the historical ambience and walk up narrow streets that echo with the steps of time in a perfect medieval setting. |