Walled Hill Town of Barberino Val d'Elsa

AN EXPRESSION OF BEAUTY

If you need to see an expression of beauty, just go down the A1 'Del Sole' Motorway and exit at Firenze Certosa. From there you can get on to the motorway to Siena as you turn right. Now exit at the Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. At the exit itself you can turn left going towards Tavarnelle. As you arrive at Tavarnelle turn right and follow the directions to Barberino Val d'Elsa/Poggibonsi which takes you to the ring road. Exit at Tavarnelle and go on for about 2 kilometers and catch your breath as you reach Barberini Val d'Elsa. You have now arrived at the most beautiful place in Tuscany, aptly defined by Fernand Braudel as the, "most moving countryside that exists".

Feel like the king of the mountain as you stand on the top of the hill which is 373 meters above sea level. Belonging to the Abbey of Passignano in 1054, Barberino holds a vantage point with a gorgeous view overlooking the valleys. The ancient times saw Barberino as a fortress village in the Parish of San Pietro in Bossolo. After the destruction of Semifonte which was a fast developing area, the people of Florence thought that it would overtake the city of Florence and lay siege to Semifonte in 1202. This led to Florence banning any type of construction on the hill for centuries to come. But today, you can see a dome which is a replica of the Brunelleschi cupola rising from its hamlet, which serves as a reminder of the unnecessary warfare. Barberino became the military fortress of the Republic of Florence and was surrounded with walls resembling a garrison. Ruled by a Podesta or Governor, the hilly town became a walled town with its defensive walls.

Explore the exciting town of Barberino with its main road running alongside its walls to the east. At one time the main road ran through the town which enabled the pilgrims and the travellers to take a break at the Pilgrim's Hospice which is near the Florence Gate which was commissioned by Taddeo di Cecco who was the son of the poet, Francesco da Barberino in 1365. Imposing and strong, the hill served as a stronghold with the advantage of being between the Elsa and the Pesa banks which gave the Florentines the confidence to build a fortress against their enemies. Mysterious and exciting, the walled hill town of Barberino Val d'Elsa is a true medieval style module from the 13th century. Accessed by two gates this protected town is incredibly intriguing as you walk through the main street walled in with linking wall towers. As you traverse its quaint streets and alleys you will come across the lovely Barberini Palace.

WHERE THE STONES SPEAK

Drive up the winding hilly road to the beautiful yet fortified city of Barberino Val d'Elsa which is between Florence and Siena bordering the northwest of Chianti. Walk into the sunny Piazza Barberi and find the imposing Palazzo Pretorio emblazoned with the prestigious coat of arms of the Magistrates. The Renaissance façade of the 15th century has 35 coats of arms in grey stone of the most influential families of Florence. Listen to the harmony of hymns from the Church of San Bartolomeo and admire the Annunciation by Giotto and his students and a bust in bronze by Pietro Tacca. Follow the Via Francesco da Barberino which runs down to the Sienese gate or the Porta Senese built in the 14th century. And to your left you will find the Ospedale dei Pellegrini built by Taddeo di Cecco da Barberino in 1365. Sloping down the hill you will discover the Town Hall and its Council Chamber decorated with frescoes by the artist Marco Borgianni depicting the landscape, the culture and the history of its town and the surrounding areas. Look at the lovely parish of S. Appiano of the 10th century and offer a silent prayer.

Trace the history of the walled town of Barberino Val d'Elsa with its oblong shape that resembles a shaft. Take a long walk from the Siena-Rome Gate built in stone to the modern Florence Gate and explore its two streets that seem to run parallel to each other but join together at the two main gates. The gates have an awesome Gothic touch with an 18th century belfry tower that is visible above the main walls. Though the walls are not totally intact, there are signs of destruction either by Nature or man whilst its towers overlook the Drove River. When you enter the borough you will find a fabulous palace, which belonged to the Cardinal with its coat of arms of bees carved at the entrance. This was one of the most powerful Barberini families connected to Pope Urban VIII. Walk inside and you will see traces of a fabulous past with a lovely courtyard with a round-shaped well and a special court for presenting nobles or the inhabitants.

Next to the Cardinal's palazzo to the right, you will find a great looking 14th century palazzo which has been presently turned into a farm. Soak in the sun on the piazza and find a building with a loggia which was used for special meetings, community get-togethers or used as a covered market. The building of the provostship of Barberino saw some distinct changes as it was given a new make-over by the Florentine architect, Castellucci, who changed the main façade from facing the square towards that of the valley. Come and see the old church with its sculpted cross embossed into the outer architrave of the main door. Look in admiration at the old frescoes of the 14th and the 15th centuries as well as a bronze bust of the Blessed Danvanzato and his mortal remains. The Pilgrim's Hospice near the Florence Gate has a few frescoes and an ancient tombstone. This hospice has been converted into the Municipal Library. Right in the middle of the piazza there is a statue by the German sculptor, Quirin Roth, of the great poet and writer, Francesco da Barberino who was responsible for founding this beautiful town.

CARVING A PASSIONATE NICHE

Built at the beginning of the 20th century, the parish church of Barberino Val d'Elsa has been consecrated on the 20th of September 1913 and dedicated to St. Bartholomew and St. Stephen. This church was designed by the Florentine architect Guiseppe Castellucci. Beautifully executed in the Neo-Gothic style, it comprises of a central nave with two aisles. Remarkable and imposing the bell-tower was designed to be seen from any place in the town. As you look from the main door, you will find a most entrancing view of the valley below, the Castle of Tignano and the blue haze of the far away village of San Donato in Poggio. But don't walk away just yet, for there are more fabulous sights for you to see. The ancient parish church of Sant'Appiano is made of stone in the 11th century and 12th century brick. Attached to this you will find an Antiquarian Museum arrayed with a spectrum of archaeological finds from the Etruscan age and old ceramics from the village of Linari, the castle of Poppiano at Vico d'Elsa and Petrognano. You will find the Chapel of San Michele Arcangelo really lovely as it was built in 1597 by Santi di Tito which is covered by the special dome which closely resembles a miniature of the Cupola of Florence.

As a special precaution, the inhabitants of the lovely walled city of Barberino Val d'Elsa take great care in preserving the environment of their stone township. Its medieval air and its fortified village have rendered it as one of the nine most welcoming vacation spots in Italy. Browse around its charming tower houses and narrow lanes and feel the antiquity of times gone by. Come and visit this gorgeous little town and take a tour to its enchanting neighboring spots of the lovely Linari village and the village of Sant'Appiano with its religious air and sacred ground. Come find the legends of the ancient times of the Ghibellines proud and challenging the power of Florence. Can you hear the resounding cry of, "Firenze fatti in là, che Semifonte si fa città" that spurred the Florentines into the flurry of a hasty war? But the victory of Florence still hangs in the air as the town goes about its everyday activities within its walled territory.

Visit a place where even tide cannot touch its high walls. Barberino Val d'Elsa though highly populated has been considered as a rendez-vous of both the town and country. As Henri Desplanques describes this very ambience of this lovely walled town as, "a work of art, the expression of a refined people". Get into the holiday mood and head for the loveliest place on earth, the gorgeous Barberino Val d'Elsa with all the facets of a perfect well-rounded vacation spot. Experience her breathtaking valleys and fields, her hills and terrains and entertain the mind with a holiday that never ends. Soak in the ambience and let an antique character transform your soul. Barberino Val d'Elsa offers myriad and innovative answers which uplifts your spirit. Come and experience her castles, palazzos, churches, antique houses, medieval architecture and the essence of art in its natural form.

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