Forbidden love often invokes a lot of curiosity and interest today as it did so centuries ago. Although Fra Filippo Lippi was born in Florence in 1406, the famous renaissance painter is still often associated with scandal and the notoriety he gained when he moved to Prato and began to paint frescoes for the Duomo di Prato. According to Vasari Filippo Lippi or Fra Lippo Lippi, as he is most commonly referred to, began working on the frescoes for the choir of the Cathedral of Prato in 1456. A couple of years later in 1948 he met Lucrezia Buti, the charming and young daughter of a Florentine called Francesco Buti. Succumbing to her beauty and undoubted charms Fra Lippo Lippi not only used her as his model to paint her as the Madonna and Salome but also had a long and passionate affair with her resulting in the birth of their son and daughter.  Their son Fillipino Lippo became a painter as well and achieved the lofty heights set by his illustrious father.

As we proceed towards the city of Prato we can see a magnificent ancient church built in various stages. This church had its origins from the tenth century when it was called the Pieve of Santo Stephano –Saint Stephen the first disciple of Christ and the patron saint of Prato. Many additions were added to the original church and it finally attained the status of a Duomo or Cathedral and currently houses the bishop.

The main walls of the choir in the Duomo of Prato showcase two of the most famous frescoes of Fra Lippo Lippi. They face each other and depict stories of Saint John the Baptist and Saint Stephen. These magnificent frescoes have stood majestically depicting the artistry and excellence of this renaissance painter and have recently been restored to their former glory. These luminous frescoes are vivid and yet controlled splashes of colour artistically depicting emotions and an innovative and exhilarating perspective of Christian history. The figure of Salome dancing has been featured by art afficionados and historians as been one of the most splendid and impressive figures among all his works. The floating figure of Salome, the temptress at King Herod’s banquet who delivers the head of John the Baptist on a platter, has been immortalized by many a painter, writer, musician and poet. But recently the city of Prato has also adopted this iconic painting of Salome by Fra Lippo Lippi as a symbol of their city. The Cathedral also house the famous Virgin Mary’s griddle which is safely ensconced in the Cathedral and taken out in a solemn procession on Christmas and other holy occasions to be venerated by the public.

The Cathedral of Prato also has many other famous works of art and historic value. Prato is not only the second largest city in Tuscany but is also a beautiful enclosed city with   historic buildings, museums, a palace, churches, excellent food and famous citizens.

Some 700 years old, the foundations of Piazza Santa Croce have withstood floods, executions, no-rules football matches of the Calcio Storico, markets, millions of tourists, markets and festivals… and has never lost the power to take a breath away.

The piazza is located just 800 metres from the city’s famous looming Duomo. When the afternoon sun relaxes in the sky, and its light catches on the quilted marble facade of the Santa Croce church, it is almost enough to turn heretics into believers. Possibilities open up before you with each nimbus slashed across the uneven pavement stones of the piazza.

Construction of the Santa Croce church that backdrops the piazza, began in 1294 on the site of a Franciscan chapel. Inside lie the remains of some of the world’s most famous minds - Michelangelo, Machiavelli and Galileo to name a few. And what a resting place - under the frescoes of Giotto, Donatello, and Tito in this, the largest Franciscan church in the world.

As if the history, art and splendor of the Church are not enough, the Santa Croce piazza is abundant with activities throughout the year that add a stark modern vibrancy to the historical backdrop. The 19th Century facade of the church stands guard over a variety of markets and events throughout the year, when the piazza hosts to numerous markets, festivals, sporting events, concerts, and other crowd-drawers.

Starting with the German ‘Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt’  Christmas market, the stalls are filled with various Christmas decorations, foods and gifts, as well as hot food stands selling staunchy, cold-warding foods like wurstel with sour crout… and of course, beer. But the steamy hot spiced wine, served from a large wooden vat, is just magnificent. Cupped in warm hands, the steam dissolving foggy breath, each sip gives warmth from the lips to the belly. Whilst this market has only been held in Florence for the past 6 years, its origins date back 500 years. If the idea of a German market in Florence seems a little out of place, the missing link is that Prince Heidelberg’s wife was actually the last of Florence’s royal Medici family. Maria Luisa’s statue can be found in the San Lorenzo church nearby, and her legacy of donating the family artworks is appreciated with each entry to the Uffizi gallery dedicated to holding this wondrous collection.

Just a short while after recovering from the reveries of a New Years Eve concert held in the square, Santa Croce, for but a few days in January, brings chocolaty bliss to its visitors by the way of a hand-made chocolate market. Each stall is a shrine to the god of chocolate, and there are many worshipers in attendance. From chocolate spanners and hammers for the more practical chocolate lover, to the decadent chocolate art works, and the in between delights… chocolate has never been so beautiful, so aromatic, so available in large, delicious quantities! Walking through the market, the air is filled with the aroma of chocolate and the palpable happiness of the market attendees, high from the excitement of so much chocolate, and perhaps on a bit of a sugar and caffeine rush from too much taste tasting!

In late April to early May, runs the Slow Market - a small collection of stalls showcasing wines, cheeses, meats, salsas and other food products. By this time of year, the temperature is quite warm, so entering into the shaded tents is a relief in itself. To find yourself surrounded with such wondrous foods, each imbued with the makers’ passion for good food. The worst part is trying to resist all of the numerous temptations, but some taste-testing usually helps make the decision, and the deciding process itself, a lot easier.

Something a little less palatable is the Calcio Storico - a no-holds-barred football match with origins dating back to the 15th century. In June or July, two teams of 27 players apiece gather to partake in an ancient sport that blends football and all-out brawling. Past years have been known to get so violent that the event was cancelled in 2007! It is quite a spectacle to see teams of young men, dressed in ancient Renaissance-style garb, whilst trying to get the ball into the net that runs the entire length of the pitch. However, the brawling component is often known to overshadow the actual ball-playing. Not that the spectators tend to find this a negative! Keeping in line with any form of Italian regulations, the rules are extremely complex, and the prize - a large quantity of the famous Bistecca Fiorentina (Florentine steak) which was traditionally butchered to mark the event.

Starting in the Santa Croce piazza before winding through to other famous historical posts throughout Florence is the Festa delle Rificolone (the Festival of Paper Lanterns) on 7 September. Usually for families with children, hundreds of people walk the streets holding tea-light candled paper lanterns in a festival commemorating the birthday of the Virgin Mary, a tradition dating back to the Renaissance. It is certainly a sight to see hundreds of coloured lights bobbing through the darkness en mass, and the sea of children in strollers being pushed by parents happily meandering through the ancient cobbled streets with children mesmerised by the bobbing candle-lights ensconced in magnificent paper lanterns.

Other markets peppered throughout the year peddle antiques, handcrafts, artworks, jewellery, and other treasures. Whatever the event, it is lovely to sit and enjoy the atmosphere of the market, wander through the stalls, pondering on the historical site in which you find yourself, with the backdrop of the stunning Santa Croce church.

Market shopping is an age-old tradition that has never been lost in Florence. Florentines love a good market, and one of the best ways to mingle amongst the locals can be attained outdoors, under the Tuscan sun, as the well-worn phrase goes, in outdoor markets littered around the city.

There are daily markets, seasonal markets, and special occasion markets selling every item one can think of littered around the city and in its outskirts.

The San Lorenzo piazza and surrounding streets is home to Florence’s buzzing open-air San Lorenzo markets. Lining a seemingly endless maze of cobblestone streets with ‘bancorelli’ (carts) selling handbags, wallets, belts, jewellery, arts and crafts, t-shirts, pottery, key chains, and leather-bound books with blank pages awaiting reminiscences of a Tuscan journey. The stall workers are generally a happy and friendly bunch, usually willing to bargain a little with a pleasant buyer.

And once the exertion of bartering and lugging your wares takes its toll, you find yourself just near the San Lorenzo central food markets - aptly located, since San Lorenzo is in fact the patron saint of cooks. With hundreds of specialty stores selling produce that personify delight such as olives as fleshy as a Rubens model, blushing tomatoes, hams cured in various ways and sliced so thin that they melt in the mouth, more cheeses than a photo album, Italian alcohols such as the Limoncello surely made from lemons and pure sunshine, and many other goodies to easily recuperate any calories spent wandering through the city streets. There are perfectly round zucchinis, small and seedless avocados the shape of gherkins, and so many kinds of apples that the stall seems like a paint-chart ranging from passive yellow, granny smith green through to pink lady and crisp reds.

The compact Mercato Nuovo, located on Via Porta Rossa (just near the larger Piazza Della Republica), offers similar wares to those of the San Lorenzo markets. Packed into an undercover area, there are some amazing leather-works, scarves and gloves, hats, shirts, wallets, hair accessories, leather-bound books and other items that become perfect tangible treasures of a Tuscan trip.

The Le Cascine area of Florence also has a gigantic clothing market on every Tuesday morning, held in a giant piazza where second hand and outlet clothing, jewellery and shoes are all on offer. Tables are lined with sparkling jewels, cardboard boxes spew out sleeves and legs of garments from outlet stores, shopaholics sell off the spending evidence of seasons’ past, and stacks of shoe boxes conceal footwear from house-shoes to killer heels.

Junk and brick-a-back do their best to conceal antique treasures at the Mercato dei Pulci, located in Piazza dei Ciompi held on the last Sunday of every month. Here, there is usually a table filled with hundreds of new but dated sunglasses that draws in almost every passerby to try on (and often, buy!) the most ridiculous shades possible! Old coins, books, clothes, china, hats and bags line tables crammed into a narrow street, surrounding a permanent antiques market containing approximately 20 stalls where larger furniture items, lamp shades, vases, artworks, toys, and random household objects can be pondered upon.

Just down the road, heading away from the centre of Florence, you find the Piazza San Ambrogio markets. By night, this area is used as a car-park, but by day, it is transformed into an experience bursting with sensations. Here you will find a row of food stalls burdened with bright fruits and vegetables, the cheeses and breads, meats and aromatic herbs, the locals skittering from stall to stall buying a little here, a little there. Most stall holders are happy to provide advice as to how these wonders are best prepared, and a few even have items to taste along the way.

There is a large indoor area of the San Ambrogio market which is flanked partially by the fresh produce stalls, then by household goods, fashions, and a wonderous little fresh plant and flower stall. Inside, are the fresh meats, cheeses, breads, and a little bar where you can cram in with the locals to enjoy a cheap but fantastic meal. This market is almost worth going to alone to see one meat stall in particular, which is always surrounded by women waiting patiently to be served by one of any of the several butchers, who are of various ages and looks, but all extremely pleasant to speak to, and even more pleasant to watch whilst one waits!

San Miniato, famous for its truffle hunting grounds, also has a small but satisfying market selling clothes, underwear, jewellery, shoes, handbags, sweets, and crafts.

The mother of Florentine markets however, must be the Fortessa di Basso antiques fair. Spanning over several vast parks, families take their afternoon walk through the winding paths of the tree-filled park that is overcome with a mass of market stalls selling the most fabulous household objects from sugar tins through to display cabinets, ancient books, glassware, fashions, art works, old toys, war memorabilia, arts and crafts… more items than any one person could possibly buy in several lifetimes of avid shopping. An entire day can easily, and pleasantly, be passed wandering and exploring. In the centre of one of the parks, is a large fountain just perfect for sitting by, kicking off the shoes to let the cool grass sooth tired feet, and perhaps even laying back and closing your eyes to the wonderous sun. From here, there is just the sound of relaxed, happy people and chirping birds happy for the company.

The term ‘Tuscany’ invokes ideals of vineyards and mountainous scenery, well-coiffed locals in crisply ironed linen sipping local wines and dining on some of the best food the world has to offer.

This is the home of the Renaissance, which produced famous art works and breath-taking architecture dating back throughout the mind-bogglingly long and rich history of the area.

For this reason, just 20km north-west of the Florence city center, in the famed wine-producing Mugello region, it is quite a surprise to come across a site that does not quite fit with the postcard perception of the rolling Tuscan hills lined with Villas shielded by rows of cypress trees.

This is a place, breathtakingly beautiful, and yet not depicted in any of the famous artworks nor mentioned in any of the thousands of historical poems and novels set in Tuscany.

I refer to the Lago Bilancino, a man-made lake nestled in the Tuscan hills with a surface area of 5km.

Completed in 1995, it was originally constructed as a damn intended to increase water supply to Pistoia, Prato and Florence.

But the local wildlife had other ideas. And as such, the area is richly populated by exotic animals and plants, such as pink flamingos, storks and cranes. And of course, which body of water would be complete without the skwark of seagulls overhead?

As the area is also abundant with a wide array of brightly colored and headily perfumed plants and flowers, Lake Bilancino now features zones designed to develop and protect its wildlife and flora.

But real nature lovers will also want to visit this area for the other natural wonder it has to offer: the Tuscans who flock to the area to swim and sun bake on its shores!

There are the more popular areas along the shoreline, where you will pay to rent a beach chair and umbrella. Complete with on-shore bars to ensure one is never too far away from an express shot of caffè or a glass of the famed local wine, these are populated by locals who are often fully made-up and highly coutured Tuscan beauties (men and women alike).

Along the other parts of the radius of Lake Bilancino, you will find areas populated by families, with young children happily squealing and splashing each other as they run along the water’s edge. The next group of beach chairs may be populated by teenagers adding final bronzing touches to naturally olive skins, whilst grandmothers, taking a few precious moments from the pasta-making, backstroke out from the calmly lapping shore.

Stepping into the water brings a surprise to the toes – the base of the lake is covered with oozy mud that squishes and sucks in your digits. This is explains why all the locals are wearing plastic water shoes whilst swimming!

And swimming in the water is just blissful. The water temperature during the summer months is refreshing without being startling, and swimming only a short distance out from shore brings an idyllic isolation.

The presence of fish in the water is a good sign as to the health of the lake, it can be quite a surprise to have your calves kissed by curious and friendly fish!

As the temperate waters ripple across skin warmed by the famed Tuscan sun, the sound of birds mimicking the delightful squeals of playing children, it is just a dream to look across the expanse of water and see yourself surrounded by the smooth-walled muted-citrus colored Villas cradled on crests of almost each of the rising hills in the distance.

Some of these properties are the historical residences of the Medici family, who originated in this area and were extensive property owners here. The nearby Villa Medicea di Cafaggiolo, constructed in 1454 as a Medici castle by Lorenzo il Magnifico, is one of the few such properties that is open to tourists.

One of the reasons that not many tourists are found on these shores is that is an area generally requiring a car and good local knowledge to get to, heading towards the edge of Tuscany towards the Emilia-Romagna region. The closest train station is San Piero a Sieve, still some distance away from the lake itself. In fact, Lago Bilancino is not even mentioned in many of the most popular Tuscan guide books!

There are also stretches of shoreline dedicated to play on the water by way of wind surfing, canoing and sailing. Higher up, there are small planes used for flight lessons and sight-seeing by the local aero-clubs. On land, the surrounding area is also well known amongst bike riding and mountain trekking enthusiasts.

Plans for further development of the region include adding more plant-life, such as the plantation of shrubbery along the shoreline, and also creating a a Giardino delle farfalle – a Butterfly Garden! There is also the Frutti dei Medici, a garden project aimed at producing and protecting all the fruits and vegetables used by the Medici family whose recipes are still in existence today!

Lago Bilancino, with its stunning surroundings and abundance of wildlife and plants, is a breathtakingly and surprising way to pass your time Under the Tuscan Sun. It is also a great place to mix with the locals at play!

In this way, Lago Bilancino is therefore living up to its name, with the word ‘Bilancino’ meaning to balance out.

La Buca di Sant’Antonio is one of the oldest restaurants in Lucca. Buca means “Inn”. This restaurant has an ancient history as a restaurant and as a staging post for horses. It has been in operation since1782. It has maintained some of its old world charm with copper pots hanging from the ceiling and a collection of musical instruments including exquisite trumpets lending an artistic atmosphere.

Although there are signs guiding you its location la Buca di Sant’Antonio is situated in a small alley almost hidden from view, very close to Piazza San Michele. It is situated very near the lovely church of San Michele.

The food is very traditional and tasty. There is a wide variety of choice in both the first and second course. They have a few in house specialties which they recommend and it is a good idea to try them out. The menu is extensive and features many local and seasonal dishes. It features many traditional Lucchese dishes including smoked herring and crostini topped with pheasant pate, porcini mushroom delicacies and many wild game dishes. It goes without saying that they use local and fresh produce and the pastas are fresh and home made daily. The desserts including the fruit loaf, tarts and biscuits are very scrumptious.

There is an attention-grabbing wine cellar right inside the restaurant which can be viewed by the guests. It offers the best of local and vintage Tuscan wines.

With its rustic ambience, its traditional and delicious food and formal service La Buca di Sant’Antonio is a popular restaurant in Lucca. Although it is a bit pricey it offers a good dining experience when you visit Lucca. It has attracted the likes of Ezra Pound, Puccini and other literary figures as it had a secret collection of banned books.
 

Porcini Mushrooms are definitely a delicacy which Italy can be proud of. To date the forests and hills in Tuscany offer these traditional and tasty fungi to all discerning food lovers.

When you visit Tuscany you can pick up these wild mushrooms. But do pick up the young small ones as the older porcini mushrooms may have maggots and do not taste as good.  The best place to find these mushrooms is under an oak or chestnut tree in the wild forests in the Hills of Tuscany on a warm day after a fresh spell of rain. Although dried porcini mushrooms are available all year round it is best to enjoy them fresh in autumn when the Tuscan landscape unfolds before your eyes offering you the best of its myriad charms.

Mushroom hunting is like a national past time in Autumn in many parts of Tuscany.  Many locals and tourists enjoy exploring the forests to pick up these brown, ochre or rust coloured specialties. Chocolate brown coloured ones are the most highly prized mushrooms. If you find these you can be sure that when you slice them and expose their creamy white flesh with the dark brown edge you will not only get a visual treat but would have also have a prized possession in your favour. The best porcini mushrooms have an intense flavour which may overpower some and a fine and sort of creamy texture.

Many traditional Tuscan dishes are made using these mushrooms as one of the main ingredients. You can also use it to make a porcini mushroom sauce, for soups, in salads, in pasta dishes, stuffed porcini mushrooms or you can even grill it or fry it and lightly season it with olive oil and a hint of garlic.

When you are in Tuscany during the season which stretches from late August up to September it is a good idea to savour these mushrooms in a local trattoria or restaurant where it features prominently in the seasonal menu. If you like truffles as well then you can come and savour both mushrooms and truffles as the seasons overlap for a couple of weeks.

It is indeed an amazing experience to gather fresh pine nuts from the wild (forests in Tuscany) and eat them immediately. All nuts are very tasty but fresh Pine Nuts straight off the pine trees are something you should experience when you visit Tuscany. Stone Pine trees in Tuscan forests produce a very high quality of nuts with a piney flavour, sweet and slightly buttery taste, smooth texture and a lovely natural woody flavour.

Pinoli, Pignoli or Pine Nuts are easily available in Tuscany. There are many forests filled with Stone Pines all over Tuscany. Some of the most beautiful forests are along the sea shore. One forest famous for its abundant and beautiful pine trees is the Migliarino forest which is close to Pisa.

Pine nuts are used as an ingredient in a variety of Tuscan recipes. They form a part of innumerable salads, Tuscan biscotti and cookies, cakes, pastas, meat dishes, chicken dishes, vegetable dishes, fish, game etc. Although they are mainly used to make sweet dishes pine nuts also form a part of a few savoury traditional Tuscan dishes. They are the major ingredient in pesto sauce. Pine nut oil is also extracted from pine nuts. It has a mild but nutty flavour.

Pine nuts are healthy as they are rich in protein, fibre, vitamins and minerals. Pine nuts can be eaten raw, lightly roasted or as part of various extremely delicious dishes. I prefer them raw and sometimes I like the lightly roasted pine nuts. However I also enjoy them when they are part of dishes especially confectionary and so will you I hope.

Bistrot is an elegant restaurant situated in Viale Franceschi, Forte dei Marmi. It offers the best of dining by the beachside along with delicious and naturally fresh food. It is generally open for both lunch and dinner.

The pastas are fresh and home made. But of course the highlights of the menu are the seafood on offer. Some of the highly recommended dishes include carpaccio di branzino where thin slices of bass are seared on a high flame and then seasoned with fresh local olive oil, tomatoes and basil. Another favourite is the risotto with lobster. There is another typical dish called sauté di frutti di mare which is a combination of clams, garlic and tomato and has the consistency of something between that of a stew and a soup.

A range of desserts are available but the hot flan dotted with pieces of white and plain chocolate is definitely an excellent way to complete your meal.

Situated along the beautiful coast it has a lot to offer especially to the tourist. You will find a few locals frequenting the restaurant to enjoy the excellent sea food. Visit this restaurant especially if you love fresh seafood and fine dining as the prices are a bit on the high side. It is better to book a table in advance.

Tignanello is one of the best and most often recognized red wines among the Super Tuscans. It is a pioneering Super Tuscan from the famous winemaker Piero Antinori. In 1971 Antinori developed a new wine which fell out of the specifications of the Chianti Classico. He decided to name this wine as Tignanello after the Tignanello Estate where it is being produced. Thus the Super Tuscan was born in Tuscany and released in 1978.

Tignanello is a fine blend of three grapes-the Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It is a dry red wine. Tignanello is aged in small French barrels. This was the first wine to be aged thus. Another first about Tignanello is the fact that this blend used the Cabernet Sauvignon for the first time after eliminating local white varieties like Trebbiano and Malvasia.

Tignanello is indeed a Super wine in every way. It is made only during certain vintages with the choicest and best quality grapes from the main vineyards. The grapes are gently harvested by hand. They go through well controlled maleolactic fermentation stage in French oak barrels. Finally they are aged for over two years before they are marketed.

Tignanello is a full bodied deep red wine. Depending on the vintage the bouquet has the aroma of berries with hints of tobacco, raisins, spices, chocolate etc. It is a velvety wine which offers you a long and smooth finish. It has a complex structure and a rich mouth feel. It is well accompanied by Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Florentine Steak).

Tignanello is an excellent wine to add to your wine cellar. It always improves with age as maturity further softens the tannins and improves the smooth finish. However go ahead and indulge after picking up your Tignanello and enjoy this Super Tuscan.

As you drive through the hills in Tuscany you will find most roads are lined with beautiful chestnut trees. Chestnut trees are as much part of the Tuscan landscape as vineyards, olive groves or oak and cypress forests. From ancient times chestnut trees have been a part of the landscape. They have provided sustenance for the Tuscan mountain dwellers both as the chestnut and as chestnut flour.

If you traveling in autumn you may even find the locals and tourists stopping to pick up chestnuts straight off the trees. It is great fun to pick the chestnuts straight from trees –its like enjoying a picnic and gaining delicious bounties from nature. If you have a knife you can even peel away the outer shell and eat the nut raw. But be careful of the spiny outer layer covering the nut.

Chestnuts can also be boiled, roasted or made into flour and are used to make an amazing number of delicious dishes. They can be used to make both sweet and savoury dishes. There are so many tasty local and international dishes which can be made using chestnuts. The local Tuscan favourites are necci (a flat rustic style cake which is made in griddles using chestnut flour with milk or water and generally eaten with cheese), fritelles (fried pancakes which taste superb with honey) and of course the famous castagnaccio (an ancient and traditional Tuscan chestnut cake).

Chestnuts are an important part of the Italian countryside and some towns have festivals dedicated to the chestnut just as there are festivals for truffles, mushrooms, grape and wine festivals and olive and olive oil festivals.

Although the chestnut or its flour can be converted to innumerable recipes each one holding its own place in Tuscan cooking I believe roasted chestnuts are one of the best ever foods nature has provided for us. Roasting chestnuts in an open fire in Tuscany? Ahhhhhhh…. You have to really visit Tuscany to enjoy this amazing experience.