PIZZA!
Coming to Italy and not trying pizza is like swimming without getting wet.
But finding a great ‘pizzeria’ can be tricky in a limited amount of time to explore a city. There are pizzerias lining most of the famous piazzas, where you will eat great pizza in a wonderful atmosphere enjoying the ambiance of the wondrous Florence city centre.
But locating the more typical pizzerias where the locals are hiding and dining is a delight in itself - to be surrounded by tables of Italian families, all speaking at once and yet somehow able to actually listen at the same time, to see the couples interacting - discerning the new couples and not so new, trying to spot the first dates, the romantic dinners, the apology meals. Then there are the birthday parties, the Friday night out, the because-it-is-Thursday-lunchtime-and-we-have-been-coming-here-every-Thursday-lunchtime-for-30-years lunches… maybe you could even pass some time wondering where all the wives are whilst all the men are gathered to pass an afternoon together laughing and drinking wine and eating pizza, and chatting with the staff loudly and raucously as they have done for decades, or perhaps you will get the next generations dining at the table near-by. These days, the girls are more likely to come along too….or even to be forming their own gaggle of gorgeous and giggly girls.
For this kind of pizza experience, Florence offers Le Campane pizzeria on Borgo La Croce 87r, not too far from Piazza Beccaria. At the entrance, there are people waiting for their take-home orders, often accompanied by a dog on a leash excited by the delicious aromas emanating from the pizza ovens. Heading towards the back of the restaurant, you come to a large back room, packed with locals enjoying their favourite slice. The menu is all in Italian, and there are not even descriptions of the pizzas. A personal recommendation would be the Margarita of a thin pizza crust covered with delicious cheese and a tomato sauce that is like the intense taste of Tuscan sunshine epitomised, or for the more daring, opt for the ‘Sister Perversion’ - a cross between a folded pizza (’Calzone’) and a standard flat pizza, topped with artichokes, ham, cheese and olives… perfect with the house wine and some good company.
Just around the corner, Il Pizzaiolo on Via de’ Macci 113 r, just a few streets over from the Santa Croce piazza, is something a little more special as far as a pizzeria goes. If you don’t have a reservation, you may be laughed at for even suggesting you would like a table! But if you go early, from around 7pm-8pm, you may have a chance of getting in without a booking. Once the locals start arriving, chances dwindle. Aside from being one of the top pizzerias in Florence, the mixed entree platter (Antipasto Misto) is worth the visit alone! A platter for two centred with a parcel of buffalo mozzarella that is opened to contain a liquidy-soft cheese that your taste buds will never forget. The coccoli (in Italian, this means ‘cuddles’ - a small ball of fried and salted pizza dough) and hams all bundled together along with other morsels of pleasure are better than, well, other really fantastic things in life!
Near Porto Prato you will find the Funiculì pizzeria which serves their pizzas on bases a little higher than the standard thin crusts. Dining is in an enormous room with hundreds of tables (so almost always you can get in without a reservation!), there are also car parks available without entering the city streets that are restricted entry. The atmosphere is fun and relaxed, with lots of locals enjoying a combination of the finest pleasures in life - great company, great food and Tuscan wine!
On the other side of the Arno river, on Lungharno Ferrucci, you will find a Pizzeria Restaurant La Greppia. Out of the historical city centre, you can dine on fantastic pizza with a side of wonderful views from the terrace overlooking the splendid river.
Il Caffe Italiano, Via Condotta 12, has a maze of small dining rooms each with a different but always spectacular ambiance. For the pizza, there is no menu, just 3 or so standard pizzas that are always on offer and always delicious! One of the other fantastic things about this pizzeria is that is just a few doors down from the famous Vivolli gelateria where you can get the best, home-made gelato for dessert!
And if you really just want fantastic pizza without having to leave the house, there is always Princes Pizzeria that will bring fantastic pizza direct to you! Just call (+39) 055 268000.
Besides knowing where to go, some other tips about eating pizza in Italy would be that pizza is often considered as an entree that is then followed by a meat main, with a side of vegetables. Generally, people will order one pizza per person, with the sizes being on average, that of a standard dinner plate. Italians do not usually fold their pizza, and regulations about use of cutlery or hands, change according to which state you are in. Asking for the pizza to be made with Mozzarella di Buffula (Buffalo Mozzarella) is a good idea also. If it is available, the pizzas are just amazing. The best pizzas have few toppings, which allows the flavours of each ingredient to really be appreciated.
And don’t forget to eat your pizza served with some wonderful Tuscan wine, and save room for the life-changing desserts Tuscany is famous for!
Tags: florence, italy, school, tuscany cooking class, wine class
