Santa Croce
Some 700 years old, the foundations of Piazza Santa Croce have withstood floods, executions, no-rules football matches of the Calcio Storico, markets, millions of tourists, markets and festivals… and has never lost the power to take a breath away.
The piazza is located just 800 metres from the city’s famous looming Duomo. When the afternoon sun relaxes in the sky, and its light catches on the quilted marble facade of the Santa Croce church, it is almost enough to turn heretics into believers. Possibilities open up before you with each nimbus slashed across the uneven pavement stones of the piazza.
Construction of the Santa Croce church that backdrops the piazza, began in 1294 on the site of a Franciscan chapel. Inside lie the remains of some of the world’s most famous minds - Michelangelo, Machiavelli and Galileo to name a few. And what a resting place - under the frescoes of Giotto, Donatello, and Tito in this, the largest Franciscan church in the world.
As if the history, art and splendor of the Church are not enough, the Santa Croce piazza is abundant with activities throughout the year that add a stark modern vibrancy to the historical backdrop. The 19th Century facade of the church stands guard over a variety of markets and events throughout the year, when the piazza hosts to numerous markets, festivals, sporting events, concerts, and other crowd-drawers.
Starting with the German ‘Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt’ Christmas market, the stalls are filled with various Christmas decorations, foods and gifts, as well as hot food stands selling staunchy, cold-warding foods like wurstel with sour crout… and of course, beer. But the steamy hot spiced wine, served from a large wooden vat, is just magnificent. Cupped in warm hands, the steam dissolving foggy breath, each sip gives warmth from the lips to the belly. Whilst this market has only been held in Florence for the past 6 years, its origins date back 500 years. If the idea of a German market in Florence seems a little out of place, the missing link is that Prince Heidelberg’s wife was actually the last of Florence’s royal Medici family. Maria Luisa’s statue can be found in the San Lorenzo church nearby, and her legacy of donating the family artworks is appreciated with each entry to the Uffizi gallery dedicated to holding this wondrous collection.
Just a short while after recovering from the reveries of a New Years Eve concert held in the square, Santa Croce, for but a few days in January, brings chocolaty bliss to its visitors by the way of a hand-made chocolate market. Each stall is a shrine to the god of chocolate, and there are many worshipers in attendance. From chocolate spanners and hammers for the more practical chocolate lover, to the decadent chocolate art works, and the in between delights… chocolate has never been so beautiful, so aromatic, so available in large, delicious quantities! Walking through the market, the air is filled with the aroma of chocolate and the palpable happiness of the market attendees, high from the excitement of so much chocolate, and perhaps on a bit of a sugar and caffeine rush from too much taste tasting!
In late April to early May, runs the Slow Market - a small collection of stalls showcasing wines, cheeses, meats, salsas and other food products. By this time of year, the temperature is quite warm, so entering into the shaded tents is a relief in itself. To find yourself surrounded with such wondrous foods, each imbued with the makers’ passion for good food. The worst part is trying to resist all of the numerous temptations, but some taste-testing usually helps make the decision, and the deciding process itself, a lot easier.
Something a little less palatable is the Calcio Storico - a no-holds-barred football match with origins dating back to the 15th century. In June or July, two teams of 27 players apiece gather to partake in an ancient sport that blends football and all-out brawling. Past years have been known to get so violent that the event was cancelled in 2007! It is quite a spectacle to see teams of young men, dressed in ancient Renaissance-style garb, whilst trying to get the ball into the net that runs the entire length of the pitch. However, the brawling component is often known to overshadow the actual ball-playing. Not that the spectators tend to find this a negative! Keeping in line with any form of Italian regulations, the rules are extremely complex, and the prize - a large quantity of the famous Bistecca Fiorentina (Florentine steak) which was traditionally butchered to mark the event.
Starting in the Santa Croce piazza before winding through to other famous historical posts throughout Florence is the Festa delle Rificolone (the Festival of Paper Lanterns) on 7 September. Usually for families with children, hundreds of people walk the streets holding tea-light candled paper lanterns in a festival commemorating the birthday of the Virgin Mary, a tradition dating back to the Renaissance. It is certainly a sight to see hundreds of coloured lights bobbing through the darkness en mass, and the sea of children in strollers being pushed by parents happily meandering through the ancient cobbled streets with children mesmerised by the bobbing candle-lights ensconced in magnificent paper lanterns.
Other markets peppered throughout the year peddle antiques, handcrafts, artworks, jewellery, and other treasures. Whatever the event, it is lovely to sit and enjoy the atmosphere of the market, wander through the stalls, pondering on the historical site in which you find yourself, with the backdrop of the stunning Santa Croce church.
Tags: florence, italy, santa croce, school, tuscany cooking class, wine class
