Archive for February, 2008
Arezzo’s Antique Markets
Thursday, February 28th, 2008Market shopping is an age-old tradition that has never been lost in Florence. Florentines love a good market, and one of the best ways to mingle amongst the locals can be attained outdoors, under the Tuscan sun, as the well-worn phrase goes, in outdoor markets littered around the city.
There are daily markets, seasonal markets, and special occasion markets selling every item one can think of littered around the city and in its outskirts.
The San Lorenzo piazza and surrounding streets is home to Florence’s buzzing open-air San Lorenzo markets. Lining a seemingly endless maze of cobblestone streets with ‘bancorelli’ (carts) selling handbags, wallets, belts, jewellery, arts and crafts, t-shirts, pottery, key chains, and leather-bound books with blank pages awaiting reminiscences of a Tuscan journey. The stall workers are generally a happy and friendly bunch, usually willing to bargain a little with a pleasant buyer.
And once the exertion of bartering and lugging your wares takes its toll, you find yourself just near the San Lorenzo central food markets - aptly located, since San Lorenzo is in fact the patron saint of cooks. With hundreds of specialty stores selling produce that personify delight such as olives as fleshy as a Rubens model, blushing tomatoes, hams cured in various ways and sliced so thin that they melt in the mouth, more cheeses than a photo album, Italian alcohols such as the Limoncello surely made from lemons and pure sunshine, and many other goodies to easily recuperate any calories spent wandering through the city streets. There are perfectly round zucchinis, small and seedless avocados the shape of gherkins, and so many kinds of apples that the stall seems like a paint-chart ranging from passive yellow, granny smith green through to pink lady and crisp reds.
The compact Mercato Nuovo, located on Via Porta Rossa (just near the larger Piazza Della Republica), offers similar wares to those of the San Lorenzo markets. Packed into an undercover area, there are some amazing leather-works, scarves and gloves, hats, shirts, wallets, hair accessories, leather-bound books and other items that become perfect tangible treasures of a Tuscan trip.
The Le Cascine area of Florence also has a gigantic clothing market on every Tuesday morning, held in a giant piazza where second hand and outlet clothing, jewellery and shoes are all on offer. Tables are lined with sparkling jewels, cardboard boxes spew out sleeves and legs of garments from outlet stores, shopaholics sell off the spending evidence of seasons’ past, and stacks of shoe boxes conceal footwear from house-shoes to killer heels.
Junk and brick-a-back do their best to conceal antique treasures at the Mercato dei Pulci, located in Piazza dei Ciompi held on the last Sunday of every month. Here, there is usually a table filled with hundreds of new but dated sunglasses that draws in almost every passerby to try on (and often, buy!) the most ridiculous shades possible! Old coins, books, clothes, china, hats and bags line tables crammed into a narrow street, surrounding a permanent antiques market containing approximately 20 stalls where larger furniture items, lamp shades, vases, artworks, toys, and random household objects can be pondered upon.
Just down the road, heading away from the centre of Florence, you find the Piazza San Ambrogio markets. By night, this area is used as a car-park, but by day, it is transformed into an experience bursting with sensations. Here you will find a row of food stalls burdened with bright fruits and vegetables, the cheeses and breads, meats and aromatic herbs, the locals skittering from stall to stall buying a little here, a little there. Most stall holders are happy to provide advice as to how these wonders are best prepared, and a few even have items to taste along the way.
There is a large indoor area of the San Ambrogio market which is flanked partially by the fresh produce stalls, then by household goods, fashions, and a wonderous little fresh plant and flower stall. Inside, are the fresh meats, cheeses, breads, and a little bar where you can cram in with the locals to enjoy a cheap but fantastic meal. This market is almost worth going to alone to see one meat stall in particular, which is always surrounded by women waiting patiently to be served by one of any of the several butchers, who are of various ages and looks, but all extremely pleasant to speak to, and even more pleasant to watch whilst one waits!
San Miniato, famous for its truffle hunting grounds, also has a small but satisfying market selling clothes, underwear, jewellery, shoes, handbags, sweets, and crafts.
The mother of Florentine markets however, must be the Fortessa di Basso antiques fair. Spanning over several vast parks, families take their afternoon walk through the winding paths of the tree-filled park that is overcome with a mass of market stalls selling the most fabulous household objects from sugar tins through to display cabinets, ancient books, glassware, fashions, art works, old toys, war memorabilia, arts and crafts… more items than any one person could possibly buy in several lifetimes of avid shopping. An entire day can easily, and pleasantly, be passed wandering and exploring. In the centre of one of the parks, is a large fountain just perfect for sitting by, kicking off the shoes to let the cool grass sooth tired feet, and perhaps even laying back and closing your eyes to the wonderous sun. From here, there is just the sound of relaxed, happy people and chirping birds happy for the company.
Take a dip in Tuscany
Wednesday, February 27th, 2008The term ‘Tuscany’ invokes ideals of vineyards and mountainous scenery, well-coiffed locals in crisply ironed linen sipping local wines and dining on some of the best food the world has to offer.
This is the home of the Renaissance, which produced famous art works and breath-taking architecture dating back throughout the mind-bogglingly long and rich history of the area.
For this reason, just 20km north-west of the Florence city center, in the famed wine-producing Mugello region, it is quite a surprise to come across a site that does not quite fit with the postcard perception of the rolling Tuscan hills lined with Villas shielded by rows of cypress trees.
This is a place, breathtakingly beautiful, and yet not depicted in any of the famous artworks nor mentioned in any of the thousands of historical poems and novels set in Tuscany.
I refer to the Lago Bilancino, a man-made lake nestled in the Tuscan hills with a surface area of 5km.
Completed in 1995, it was originally constructed as a damn intended to increase water supply to Pistoia, Prato and Florence.
But the local wildlife had other ideas. And as such, the area is richly populated by exotic animals and plants, such as pink flamingos, storks and cranes. And of course, which body of water would be complete without the skwark of seagulls overhead?
As the area is also abundant with a wide array of brightly colored and headily perfumed plants and flowers, Lake Bilancino now features zones designed to develop and protect its wildlife and flora.
But real nature lovers will also want to visit this area for the other natural wonder it has to offer: the Tuscans who flock to the area to swim and sun bake on its shores!
There are the more popular areas along the shoreline, where you will pay to rent a beach chair and umbrella. Complete with on-shore bars to ensure one is never too far away from an express shot of caffè or a glass of the famed local wine, these are populated by locals who are often fully made-up and highly coutured Tuscan beauties (men and women alike).
Along the other parts of the radius of Lake Bilancino, you will find areas populated by families, with young children happily squealing and splashing each other as they run along the water’s edge. The next group of beach chairs may be populated by teenagers adding final bronzing touches to naturally olive skins, whilst grandmothers, taking a few precious moments from the pasta-making, backstroke out from the calmly lapping shore.
Stepping into the water brings a surprise to the toes – the base of the lake is covered with oozy mud that squishes and sucks in your digits. This is explains why all the locals are wearing plastic water shoes whilst swimming!
And swimming in the water is just blissful. The water temperature during the summer months is refreshing without being startling, and swimming only a short distance out from shore brings an idyllic isolation.
The presence of fish in the water is a good sign as to the health of the lake, it can be quite a surprise to have your calves kissed by curious and friendly fish!
As the temperate waters ripple across skin warmed by the famed Tuscan sun, the sound of birds mimicking the delightful squeals of playing children, it is just a dream to look across the expanse of water and see yourself surrounded by the smooth-walled muted-citrus colored Villas cradled on crests of almost each of the rising hills in the distance.
Some of these properties are the historical residences of the Medici family, who originated in this area and were extensive property owners here. The nearby Villa Medicea di Cafaggiolo, constructed in 1454 as a Medici castle by Lorenzo il Magnifico, is one of the few such properties that is open to tourists.
One of the reasons that not many tourists are found on these shores is that is an area generally requiring a car and good local knowledge to get to, heading towards the edge of Tuscany towards the Emilia-Romagna region. The closest train station is San Piero a Sieve, still some distance away from the lake itself. In fact, Lago Bilancino is not even mentioned in many of the most popular Tuscan guide books!
There are also stretches of shoreline dedicated to play on the water by way of wind surfing, canoing and sailing. Higher up, there are small planes used for flight lessons and sight-seeing by the local aero-clubs. On land, the surrounding area is also well known amongst bike riding and mountain trekking enthusiasts.
Plans for further development of the region include adding more plant-life, such as the plantation of shrubbery along the shoreline, and also creating a a Giardino delle farfalle – a Butterfly Garden! There is also the Frutti dei Medici, a garden project aimed at producing and protecting all the fruits and vegetables used by the Medici family whose recipes are still in existence today!
Lago Bilancino, with its stunning surroundings and abundance of wildlife and plants, is a breathtakingly and surprising way to pass your time Under the Tuscan Sun. It is also a great place to mix with the locals at play!
In this way, Lago Bilancino is therefore living up to its name, with the word ‘Bilancino’ meaning to balance out.
La Buca di Sant’Antonio in Lucca
Monday, February 25th, 2008La Buca di Sant’Antonio is one of the oldest restaurants in Lucca. Buca means “Inn”. This restaurant has an ancient history as a restaurant and as a staging post for horses. It has been in operation since1782. It has maintained some of its old world charm with copper pots hanging from the ceiling and a collection of musical instruments including exquisite trumpets lending an artistic atmosphere.
Although there are signs guiding you its location la Buca di Sant’Antonio is situated in a small alley almost hidden from view, very close to Piazza San Michele. It is situated very near the lovely church of San Michele.
The food is very traditional and tasty. There is a wide variety of choice in both the first and second course. They have a few in house specialties which they recommend and it is a good idea to try them out. The menu is extensive and features many local and seasonal dishes. It features many traditional Lucchese dishes including smoked herring and crostini topped with pheasant pate, porcini mushroom delicacies and many wild game dishes. It goes without saying that they use local and fresh produce and the pastas are fresh and home made daily. The desserts including the fruit loaf, tarts and biscuits are very scrumptious.
There is an attention-grabbing wine cellar right inside the restaurant which can be viewed by the guests. It offers the best of local and vintage Tuscan wines.
With its rustic ambience, its traditional and delicious food and formal service La Buca di Sant’Antonio is a popular restaurant in Lucca. Although it is a bit pricey it offers a good dining experience when you visit Lucca. It has attracted the likes of Ezra Pound, Puccini and other literary figures as it had a secret collection of banned books.
Porcini Mushrooms
Thursday, February 21st, 2008Porcini Mushrooms are definitely a delicacy which Italy can be proud of. To date the forests and hills in Tuscany offer these traditional and tasty fungi to all discerning food lovers.
When you visit Tuscany you can pick up these wild mushrooms. But do pick up the young small ones as the older porcini mushrooms may have maggots and do not taste as good. The best place to find these mushrooms is under an oak or chestnut tree in the wild forests in the Hills of Tuscany on a warm day after a fresh spell of rain. Although dried porcini mushrooms are available all year round it is best to enjoy them fresh in autumn when the Tuscan landscape unfolds before your eyes offering you the best of its myriad charms.
Mushroom hunting is like a national past time in Autumn in many parts of Tuscany. Many locals and tourists enjoy exploring the forests to pick up these brown, ochre or rust coloured specialties. Chocolate brown coloured ones are the most highly prized mushrooms. If you find these you can be sure that when you slice them and expose their creamy white flesh with the dark brown edge you will not only get a visual treat but would have also have a prized possession in your favour. The best porcini mushrooms have an intense flavour which may overpower some and a fine and sort of creamy texture.
Many traditional Tuscan dishes are made using these mushrooms as one of the main ingredients. You can also use it to make a porcini mushroom sauce, for soups, in salads, in pasta dishes, stuffed porcini mushrooms or you can even grill it or fry it and lightly season it with olive oil and a hint of garlic.
When you are in Tuscany during the season which stretches from late August up to September it is a good idea to savour these mushrooms in a local trattoria or restaurant where it features prominently in the seasonal menu. If you like truffles as well then you can come and savour both mushrooms and truffles as the seasons overlap for a couple of weeks.







